Remote-controlled golf carts offer you a new range of control to your golfing experience and make available hands-free operation when you walk the course. The pocket-sized remotes provide multiple controls with programmable options. The trolley is a light weight practical design that meets all your demands on the golf course. It is provided with two different modes of control with can be easily selected with the help of a switch.

Features

Firstly, with the remote controlled mode, the golfer can move the trolley with the help of a remote handset. The golfer can move the trolley in all the four directions, using the handset which also allows the golfer to independently adjust the speed of the rear wheels of the trolley.

The manual mode of control of the trolley is also good, similar to the remote control mode. This process is provided with a finger tip speed control panel placed on the handle of the trolley that allows the golfer to easily control the speed of his trolley. The handle can be used easily for both the right and left handed golfers and is provided with a variable speed control knob or a push button switch to increase or decrease the speed of the trolley.

Apart from these two control modes of operation, the trolley is also provided with a 3 set distance control mode. With this mode, the golfer is able to operate the trolley for a distance of 10, 20, and 30 meters before the trolley can come to a stop. They are also provided with high performance silent motors that help for a smooth and silent traction on your golf course

Benefits

A remarkable quality of electric golf trolleys is that they reduce a lot of stress on the physique of the player. It is very easy in transporting the clubs and other sporting equipment throughout the course. The trolleys are of great help during poor weather conditions where the golfer is required to carry extra clothing.

Many golfing goods stores are offering the services of these trolleys for the benefit of the golfers. Some remote controlled golf trolleys run on batteries and these golf trolley batteries are easily available at these same stores and can be bought at a very low rate.

Distance Control in Putting – Part II
By Clive Scarff

In a follow-up to my last article on putting, and the need for “putting” emphasis on distance/speed control, a friend challenged the theory when it comes to short putts. He said that surely alignment must be more important when it gets to putts under ten feet in length. And he’s not wrong. Not entirely. Let’s explore this notion a little further.

First, for the majority of us, we have to assume that two putts per green is good. A course’s par is based on two putts per green. And I have seen far too many people three-putt while trying to one-putt. Usually, two putts is sufficient. More on that in a bit.

If we subscribe to the strategy of two-putting, as a general rule, then let’s explore the strategy further. Our two putts are very different, with different objectives. Simply:

* Putt One is to get in the vicinity of the hole;

* Putt Two is to get into the hole.

On Putt One, accuracy is nice, distance is critical. Accuracy is almost pointless if distance control is poor. Only with consistently good distance control (a result of continually focusing on and practicing distance control) can we routinely send first putts close to the hole. And no one is suggesting accuracy isn’t important at all, or that you should deliberately sabotage your accuracy. I am just suggesting that:

* your intuition as to alignment will tend to be better than that of distance control;

* you should therefore put more conscious focus on distance control;

* if your alignment is a little off, it is not the end of the world as good distance control can still put you in makeable/gimme range.

On Putt Two, now, which is more important? Distance or accuracy? Funny, when I ask this question in private lessons, you can almost always see the student get fidgety, because now they are not thinking about what they think is right, but trying to guess what I am going to say is right. And this, often because they were wrong when I asked what was more important on first-putts. Now they don’t trust themselves! But that of course is neither the point or the objective. The answer: both distance and accuracy are equally important on second putts. (This assumes you achieved your objective on your first-putt, and got the ball to “makeable” range.) 

If your alignment is poor on a second (read: makeable) putt you will miss. The objective of the second putt is to close the deal, so missing is not an option. And as that is abundantly clear to everyone, guess what happens? All focus is placed on alignment, and very little (often none) on distance control.

Distance control is just as important on shorter putts as:

* putts that come up short rarely go in (you know that joke, don’t you?);

* putts hit too hard often (very often) bounce out or lip out.

And remember, putts that lip out rarely do so because of aim, but rather due to poor speed. Putts that hit the lower right lip are often caused by putts hit too softly, and putts that hit the top left lip are often caused by hitting the putt too firmly (assuming you are right handed, and with apologies to left handers. According to my dear late father lefties are smarter anyway, and can figure this kind of stuff out).

So the moral of the story is:

First putt, higher emphasis on distance control;

Second putts, equal emphasis on alignment and distance control but as the former is obvious, the latter usually needs more emphasis to balance things out.

And another note, as I anticipate some of the letters I am going to receive: don’t view adopting a strategy of two-putting as negative, or a cop-out. Improved distance control will lead to more sunk putts, be they first or second. Just don’t go into a first putt thinking this is a “must make”, because the subsequent second, third and fourth putts could end up being just as “must make”. 

But by all means, don’t ask for a “do-over” if your first putt goes in, because Clive Scarff said you are not supposed to make those! 

Your first-putt objective is to get the ball close, and in so doing you will see more first-putts go in because your distance control was excellent, and your alignment was right, as if often will be, naturally. We’ll take those! And the next time you see a PGA Tour pro sink a forty or fifty footer, remind yourself that he wasn’t thinking he “had to make it”, he was trying to get the ball close. And did.

To see the video tip “Line vs Speed in Putting” visit http://www.hitdowndammit.com/video.htm

Karytron, the global leader in the world of manufacturing deals in products such as P.C.C Panel, M.C.C Panel, Automatic Power Factor Correction Panel, L.T Panel, Electrical Projects and services like External & Internal Electrification Work. Here I’ll like to discuss the types of Motor Control Panel presented by Karytron. An electric motor controller can be classified on the basis of type of motor it is supposed to run like everlasting magnet, servo, series, independently excited, and alternating current. A motor controller is connected to a power source such as a battery pack or power supply, and control circuitry in the arrangement of analog or digital input signals.

A small motor can be started just by plugging it into an electrical receptacle or by using a switch or circuit breaker. A larger motor requires a specialized switching unit referred to as a motor starter or motor contactor. When energized, a direct on line (DOL) starter straight away links the motor terminals to the power supply. A motor soft starter attaches the motor to the power supply through a voltage reduction device and boosts the applied voltage in a steady manner.

An adjustable-speed drive (ASD) or variable-speed drive (VSD), on the other hand, is an consistent amalgamation of tools that smooth the progress of means of driving and adjusting the operational speed of a mechanical load. An electrical adjustable-speed drive consists of an electric motor and a speed controller or power converter alongside supplementary devices and equipment. Phase vector drives (or simply vector drives) are a progress beyond variable frequency drives (VFDs) in that they part the calculations of magnetizing current and torque generating current. These gauges are represented by phase vectors, and are united to produce the driving phase vector which in turn is splitted into the running constituents of the final stage. These calculations require a quick microprocessor, typically a DSP device.

Direct torque control has superior torque control dynamics relative to PI-current controller based vector control. Hence it suits superior to servo control applications. Despite the fact that, it has the edge over other control techniques in other applications as well because due to the quicker control it has better capabilities to damp mechanical resonances and thus stretch the life of the mechanical system. Now you can get either of these products at most cutthroat prices from Karytron in a timely manner. All you need to do is get in touch with us by putting in place an appointment with our executive.

A novel analysis of energy efficiency motors and power controllers

Voltage Control

Voltage alone can be used as a source of intelligence when the switched capacitors are applied at point where the circuit voltage decreases as circuit load increases. Generally, where they are applied the voltage should decrease as circuit load increases and the drop in voltage should be around 4 – 5 % with increasing load.

Voltage is the most common type of intelligence used in substation applications, when maintaining a particular voltage is of prime importance. This type of control is independent of load cycle. During light load time and low source voltage, this may give leading PF at the substation, which is to be taken note of. KILOVAR Control

Automatic Power Factor Control Relay

It controls the power factor of the installation by giving signals to switch on or off power factor correction capacitors. Relay is the brain of control circuit and needs contactors of appropriate rating for switching on/off the capacitors.

There is a built-in power factor transducer, which measures the power factor of the installation and converts it to a DC voltage of appropriate polarity. This is compared with a reference voltage, which can be set by means of a knob calibrated in terms of power factor.

When the power factor falls below setting, the capacitors are switched on in sequence. The relays are provided with First in First out (FIFO) and First in Last Out (FILO) sequence. The capacitors controlled by the relay must be of the same rating and they are switched on/off in linear sequence. To prevent over correction hunting, a dead band is provided. This setting determines the range of phase angle over which the relay does not respond; only when the PF goes beyond this range, the relay acts. When the load is low, the effect of the capacitors is more pronounced and may lead to hunting. Under current blocking (low current cut out) shuts off the relay, switching off all capacitors one by one in sequence, when load current is below setting. Special timing sequences ensure that capacitors are fully discharged before they are switched in. This avoids dangerous over voltage transient. The solid state indicating lamps (LEDS) display various functions that the operator should know and also and indicate each capacitor switching stage.

Intelligent Power Factor Controller (IPFC)

This controller determines the rating of capacitance connected in each step during the first hour of its operation and stores them in memory. Based on this measurement, the IPFC switches on the most appropriate steps, thus eliminating the hunting problems normally associated with capacitor switching.

Energy Efficient Motors
Minimising Watts Loss in Motors

Improvements in motor efficiency can be achieved without compromising motor performance – at higher cost – within the limits of existing design and manufacturing technology.

From the Table .1, it can be seen that any improvement in motor efficiency must result from reducing the Watts losses. In terms of the existing state of electric motor technology, a reduction in watts losses can be achieved in various ways.

All of these changes to reduce motor losses are possible with existing motor design and manufacturing technology. They would, however, require additional materials and/or the use of higher quality materials and improved manufacturing processes resulting in increased motor cost.

Energy Efficient Motor

Table 1

Thus energy-efficient electric motors reduce energy losses through improved design, better materials, and improved manufacturing techniques. Replacing a motor may be justifiable solely on the electricity cost savings derived from an energy-efficient replacement. This is true if the motor runs continuously, power rates are high, the motor is oversized for the application, or its nominal efficiency has been reduced by damage or previous rewinds. Efficiency comparison for standard and high efficiency motors is shown in Figure 2.

Fig.2

Technical aspect of energy efficiency motors

Energy-efficient motors last longer, and may require less maintenance. At lower temperatures, bearing grease lasts longer; required time between re-greasing increases. Lower temperatures translate to long lasting insulation. Generally, motor life doubles for each 10°C reduction in operating temperature.

Select energy-efficient motors with a 1.15 service factor, and design for operation at 85% of the rated motor load.

Electrical power problems, especially poor incoming power quality can affect the operation of energy-efficient motors.

Speed control is crucial in some applications. In polyphase induction motors, slip is a measure of motor winding losses. The lower the slip, the higher the efficiency. Less slippage in energy efficient motors results in speeds about 1% faster than in standard counterparts.

Starting torque for efficient motors may be lower than for standard motors. Facility managers should be careful when applying efficient motors to high torque applications.

Soft Starter

When starting, AC Induction motor develops more torque than is required at full speed. This stress is transferred to the mechanical transmission system resulting in excessive wear and premature failure of chains, belts, gears, mechanical seals, etc. Additionally, rapid acceleration also has a massive impact on electricity supply charges with high inrush currents drawing +600% of the normal run current.

Soft Starter

The use of Star Delta only provides a partial solution to the problem. Should the motor slow down during the transition period, the high peaks can be repeated and can even exceed direct on line current. Soft starter (see Figure 10.5) provides a reliable and economical solution to these problems by delivering a controlled release of power to the motor, thereby providing smooth, stepless acceleration and deceleration. Motor life will be extended as damage to windings and bearings is reduced. Soft Start & Soft Stop is built into 3 phase units, providing controlled starting and stopping with a selection of ramp times and current limit settings to suit all applications

Soft Starter: Starting current, Stress profile during starting

Advantages of Soft Start –

Less mechanical stress

Improved power factor

Lower maximum demand

Less mechanical maintenance

Pre-set modes like “Sports” and “Night Portrait” make it easy for us to just point and shoot. If you’re new to photography, two of the most important things to learn are aperture and shutter speed settings as these will give you a lot of creative control. If you’re wondering which cameras have these settings, some digital compacts have them while most of the bridge (prosumer) cameras do and all SLRs have them.

At first it seems a little daunting to start using manual camera settings, but the vast improvement in your pictures will be worth the effort.

Photography 101 – Introducing Aperture

The aperture of a camera works a lot like how the iris of a person’s eye works. Similar to your irises and how they widen or narrow to let in more or less light through the pupils, the camera’s lens diaphragm narrows or widens to let in less or more light in through the lens. The aperture is the size of this opening.

Aperture lets the photographer (or the camera’s exposure computer if it’s set to automatic) increase or reduce the amount of light that gets through to the sensor, thus helping determine how bright or dark the picture will be.

The camera aperture also controls the image’s depth of field.

To get a good idea of what this means, make a fist, holding it in front of your eye. Then slowly open your fist. See how everything is in focus when the opening in your hand is small? But when it’s open wide the object closest to you is sharper than the background?

A small aperture is great for taking pictures like landscapes where you want everything in focus.

An Aperture Priority setting on your camera allows you to set the aperture within the camera’s range of f-stop numbers (or called f-stop for short). These f stop numbers represent ratios meaning that the larger the f stop number, the narrower the aperture. So the larger the f-stop number on your camera, the larger the depth of field.

The reason the setting is called “priority” is that when you set the aperture, the camera adjusts the shutter speed so that the exposure is just right. In other words, in the wider scheme of exposure, the aperture setting will have priority, while shutter speed plays a supporting role.

Photography 101 – Learning About Shutter Speed

While the aperture controls how much light at one time falls on the image sensor, the shutter speed controls the length of time the camera allows in the light.

If you’ve ever seen really old pictures, you’ll notice that they are rarely smiling. Shutter speeds were so slow back then that people had to hold perfectly still for several minutes – not to mention in all those stiff clothes they wore for picture day. No wonder they  looked so stern!

The shutter speeds most commonly used today are 1/500th of a second to 1/60th of a second. By using Shutter Priority, you can then choose the shutter speed (within your camera’s range) for the exact effect you want.

For shutter speeds slower than 1/60 you will probably need a tripod or other camera support because when the shutter is open that long the camera records the tiniest jiggle, causing the photo to be out of focus or outright blurry.

If you want to freeze action (like what Sports mode does), set the camera’s Shutter Priority to a fast speed. Only with this manual setting, you can be more selective. For example, a dog sitting quietly will require a shutter speed of around 1/125 in order to freeze the small twitch in the dog’s tail. On the flip side, taking pictures at a soccer game may require up to 1/500 to freeze fast moving actions.

Using manual settings like Aperture Priority and Shutter Priority give you more creative control, which means better pictures that you can display on your wall.

Bar 140

• Privacy Policy

Your Maximal Speed